The Story Behind the Print | Lady of The Andes
I took this portrait on my first visit to South America, in the north of Argentina, in the Province of Salta. Many people can immediately recognise the region where it was taken. The lady's hat and shawl, and especially her facial features are so typical of that part the Andes mountains. Here is an extract from my journal that day:
Near ‘Ruinas de Titiconta’. Iruya, Argentina. 29th March. 2006
"On the descent there appeared infront of me an old lady in a wide brimmed hat. It seemed miraculous that she could have made the same climb as me. I took her photo, and she reasoned that I should give her some money. I said "No". “Coca?” was her second option. “No tengo, how about an apple?” She took both my apples as if collecting what was rightfully hers, and had my last remaining salami sandwich too! Then she rambled on about the ruins and her goats as I just sat in wonder at this chance encounter with this beautiful wrinkled old lady, who burst out laughing on more than one occasion at her own jokes. We said farewell and she stuffed a wad of coca leaves in her cheek and took off up the hillside at remarkable pace. I returned to the village, tired and content."
It was the first time I had seen anyone chewing coca leaves, and I later tried the local custom for myself. When you suck a saliva soaked quid of the leaves, mixed with an alkaline paste often made from quinoa stalks, they act as a mild stimulant, and relieve hunger.
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